Ascott-under-Wychwood and the River Evenlode
Ordnance Survey Explorer map (1:25,000):
OL45: Cotswolds
Length: 9.7km (6 miles).
Duration: 3 to 3.5 hours.
Start: Ascott-under-Wychwood
Public Houses:
Red Lion, Ascott-under-Wychwood:
01608 674 397
Tearoom:
The Village Shop, Ascott-under-Wychwood
Just Stand and Stare
This is a walk of two halves. The northern section is largely restricted to the lower and middle reaches of the River Evenlode valley, while the southern section follows the upper ridgeline of the valley’s southern flank. Although the northern sections are within the Evenlode valley, the valley is very broad in profile and while walking through it you still get the sense of wide-open spaces that offer huge views up and down the valley.
In parts of the northern section of the path, I had the real sense of being in the middle of nowhere and, except for the cheerful chirp of small birds hiding in the hedges (and the occasional train whooshing through the countryside), I experienced utter quiet. So, I took the opportunity to just stand for a moment and savour the views and the peace and quiet. For as W. H. Davis wrote, in his poem, Leisure, "A poor life this if, full of care, we have no time to stand and stare".
Time for a Tea Break
Just south of Pudlicote Farm, the path crosses Pudlicote Lane. Here I recommend you take a short detour and walk south along the lane to the point where the lane crosses the River Evenlode. Here you will find a fine stone bridge with a nice flat rampart on which a very pleasant tea break can be taken.
A similar crossing can be found on Catsham Lane, further to the east, but the bridge does not provide similar convenient seating and the lane is busier with traffic. If you are lucky, you may be rewarded by a wonderful view of a field of buttercups from across the river, as I was when I did the walk.
Gothic Churches and Clay Pigeons
The southern sections of the walk offer beautiful views across the Evenlode valley and the wider Cotswolds.
A feature of particular interest is the small Grade II* listed All Saints church in the hamlet of Shorthampton. The church is originally Norman in design, being built sometime in the 12th century but it has Gothic and Georgian components, for example most of the windows are Perpendicular Gothic, but its main interest, apart from its quiet tranquillity, are the medieval wall paintings, including a rare representation of the Miracle of the Clay Birds.
There are numerous versions of this legend, but they all ultimately include the transformation by the infant Jesus of clay models into live birds. In one account, Jesus is playing in mud and modelled clay birds from it. When he clapped his hands, they came to life and flew away. In another account angels brought him golden toy birds. However, he rejected these in favour of humble clay birds which he then brought to life.
Tall Tees and Square Towers
The Holy Trinity Church at Ascott-under-Wychwood is on an altogether different scale to All Saints Church in Shorthampton. It was built in about 1200 in a transitional style from Norman to Early English. Running down one side of the church is a magnificent lime avenue.
A Long History
Neighbouring the church is the Ascott Long Barrow. This is a Neolithic burial chamber and is believed to have been used for three to five generations from 3,700 BCE. It was excavated in 1967 and the remains of 21 individuals were discovered. The discovery of quantities of wild animal bones has suggested that the area was used as a base for huntsman before the barrow was constructed.
If you would like somewhere interesting to have a sandwich and tea break, visit the Green. Here you will find a memorial bench, around an oak tree, that commemorates the Ascott Martyrs - a group of 16 women who were imprisoned for picketing during a farm labours strike in 1873.
A Cacophony of Sheep
Further along, however, I came across a field crowded with ewes and their lambs and they filled the air with a cacophony of sound. This is where I discovered that contrary to what I had been taught as a child, sheep and lambs do not say “baa”, they say “mairr”. Maybe it is their Scottish accent, these being Highlander sheep, or is it that they have a rural Oxfordshire dialect.
The sheep, all 750 of them, are owned by Ed and Charlotte Adams of Pudlicote Farm, who have an environmentally friendly approach to farming and who are trying to improve the landscape around their farm by planting trees and hedgerows, and restoring the banks of the River Evenlode to encourage the return of wildlife. The landscape is indeed very pleasant.