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East End - Wilcote

Roman Villas, Buzzards and Holy Wells

Ordnance Survey Explorer map (1:25,000):

180: Oxford
 

Length: 13.1km (8.2 miles).
 

Duration: 4 to 4.5 hours.

Start: East End or North Leigh

Public Houses

Woodman Inn, North Leigh

01993 357 474. 

Masons Arms, North Leigh

01993 882 005.

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A missing Foot Path

This walk was designed using both an OS map and the online Oxfordshire Definitive Rights of Way map. The reason being that a section of the route (that shown in blue) is not included on the OS map. This was a bit of a shock. I have always thought of the OS map as the definitive map – a map that was unbeatable, but apparently not. I assume, having followed the advice given in my previous walk, that you will have a paper copy of an OS map with you when you do this walk. If so, I suggest you make this part of the route in it. I know this may sound like sacrilege to some of you. I also used to be of the view that a paper map should never be sullied by the hand of man, but as I do more and more walking I have started to mark the walks I do with highlighter pens of different colours. And, actually, it makes a very good visual diary of the places I have been and now whenever I open a map to design a new walk, I now spend a pleasant few minutes reminiscing over previous ones. 

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Woodland and Water

Part of this walk offers a delightful opportunity for a wander through some semi-natural ancient woodland (Whitehill Wood) alongside the River Evenlode.

 

At the right time of the year (spring) the air might be heavy with the smell of garlic. This is the scent given off by Wild Garlic or Ransom (Allium ursinum). Its stellate white flowers can make the floor of woodlands look like a terrestrial Milky Way. The plant was highly valued as a medicinal plant in the past, although one would have had to be wary gathering it as the second part of its scientific name is a reference to bears; bears apparently love the tasty bulbs. Other names for the plant are bear’s leek and bear garlic

 

I alluded above to the fact that the woodland along this stretch of the river is ancient woodland. In England, Wales and Northern Ireland, an ancient woodland is one that has existed continuously since 1600. Planting of woodland was uncommon before that date, so a wood present at that time is likely to have developed naturally. There are some plants that are known as ancient woodland indicators. That is to say their presence (together with other evidence) means the woodland is probably ancient in origin. Wild Garlic is one such plant.

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Coppicing and Pollarding

The other title I gave this woodland was semi-natural. This goes almost by default in Britain as very few of our habitats are natural; humans have had an influence on all of them to a greater or lesser extent. The most obvious evidence of this interference (or management) in Whitehill Wood is the presence of hazel coppice. Coppicing is the practice of repeatedly cutting a tree at ground level to encourage it to send up several shoots which are then harvested for poles or whips. Coppiced material was an essential resource in medieval Britain, providing wood and timber that was fundamental to the medieval economy.

 

About 1.2km south west (as the crow flies) of the woodland one will come across an example of a related, but different method of managing trees for poles, known as pollarding. This practice is similar to coppicing, except that the trees are cut leaving a trunk of 1 to 2 metres in height to encourage the development of a dense crown. As well as using pollards for wood and poles, their leafy crowns were also harvested to provide fodder for livestock.

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An Avenue and a Well

Just south of the hamlet of Wilcote is an avenue of ash trees (Fraxinus excelsior) that lead to a holy well. The well is identified as Lady Well on the OS map, but is referred to as Bridewell in other sources. It is encircled by a stone wall and just south of it is a spring that runs through a cobbled waterway.

 

Prior to the Second World War local women and girls (wearing new straw hats bedecked with primroses and violets) would make a pilgrimage each Palm Sunday through the ash tree avenue to the well. At the well they would collect water and add it to bottles, into which they had previously added crushed mints and liquorice sticks, to make a tonic.

 

Some have suggested that the name Bridewell may be associated with the Irish Saint Brigid. This might be true more recently, but it is possible that the well has earlier associations with the Celtic Goddess Brigantia. While both has associations with healing especially for women, Brigantia was also a goddess of springs, streams and water, among other things. Her Imbolc, or festive day, was celebrated the beginning of spring and was subsequently absorbed into the Christian festive calendar as Saint Brigid’s Day.

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Ancient and New

As you walk through the avenue, you will note that some of the trees have been planted relatively recently, but there are some magnificent old ash trees that still survive. I have seen many gnarled and ancient oaks, but I have seldom seen ash trees that display the fascinating, gnarled and hollow trunks like those found in this avenue. Dendrological (ring counting) analysis has shown that the oldest are some 300 years old. As a result, it has been speculated that the avenue was planted by John Cary, who became lord of Wilcote Manor after buying it in 1667. He is known to have been a keen planter and to have laid out 'nurseries of walnuts and ashes' at Woodstock for Edward Hyde, Earl of Clarendon.

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Enjoy and Tell

I hope you enjoy this walk and if you have any interesting experiences of the walk or additional information about some of the features you see please do leave a post on my Facebook page @CotwoldsWalks.

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Birds and Bees

Fortunately, I did discover the county’s definitive online map before I designed this walk and I’m pleased I did because the section of the walk I discovered was very pleasant and had a couple of notably interesting features, in particular the silence.

 

It was so quiet along this section of the walk that the silence was almost tangible. Even the birds were quiet. Even the buzzards (Buteo buteo), drifting effortlessly in the azure sky above us, were not calling.

 

The only sound was the harmonious hum of the occasional buff tailed bumblebee (Bombus terrestris). This brought the busy little animal into focus and we watched a few bobbing along just above the grass. I was with my son and we concluded the bee’s name was incorrect; bees do not have tails. In the end we concluded a more appropriate name would be the buff butt bumblebee. This has a better and rather pleasing alliteration. Having set that matter to rights we were able to continue knowing we had made a significant contribution to wildlife nomenclature.

 

We were lucky with buzzards that day and came across them at two other locations. Once when walking along a small tributary to the River Evenlode and another just west of East End, on that occasion the buzzards were flying with a couple of red kites (Milvus milvus).

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